做出爆款设计，设计师就真的开心了？

如果你已经拥有爆款，并且准备出手赚一笔差价的话，那对你来说可能是个不错的收入途径。可是，虽然你赚到了，但这似乎又给该品牌带来了另一波难题。

那个会让你误以为是《怪奇物语》官方 Merch 系列的巴黎品牌 ih nom uh nit 就面临着这一现状。前有亚洲时尚 ICON 权志龙以及流量明星吴亦凡的加持，后面也跟随着一众网红、KOL 以及 Blogger 的上身，代购、炒卖的价格就像我爷爷血压计上的数字一样，一路飙升。与此同时， ih nom uh nit 的其它作品甚至成衣系列，却面临着被这些爆红设计“喧宾夺主”的问题。

就这个问题…我们找到当事人 — ih nom uh nit 的设计师 Chaz Jordan，问了问他对这些炒卖衣服现象的看法之余，也让他亲自介绍一下，真正的 ih nom uh nit 到底是什么样的。

 

Chaz Jordan

 

「 当我为自己做出第一件《怪奇物语》单品时，并没有想到日后会批量化生产 」

－ 我知道很多人通过《怪奇物语》的系列认识了 ih nom uh nit ，但可能对其背后的设计师不是很了解，能先介绍一下你自己吗？

－ I am sure there are a lot of audience may notice ih nom uh nit through out the shirt of Stranger Things, but they still not familiar with you and the design ideas behind the brand, could you please introduce yourself a little bit, give our audience a general picture about who you are?

好，这的确引起了很多猜测…我是个创意总监，经历了调研、实验、甚至错误，才成功推出了现在的品牌。 我今年28 岁，出生于芝加哥，后来居住在加州 Beverly Hills，目前在巴黎发展。

Yes, this is for sure the case and cause for a lot of speculation…I am simply put a creative that became a creative director by research , trial / error and success. 28 , I am a Chicago native that resides in Beverly Hills California by way of Paris.

－ 所以…你很喜欢《怪奇物语》？

－ So…are you a fan of Stranger Things?

当然，它是我设计出那个系列的灵感来源。当我为自己做出第一件《怪奇物语》单品时，并没有想到日后会批量化生产。但此后的情况大家都知道了。

Of course, this was the thought process behind this piece. I never had intent to produce for distribution when I made the initial piece for myself…however, we have all been witness to what followed.

－ 这是一个 Pop Up Series ，对吧？

－ That’s a Pop Up series，Right?

是的，那一系列开启了我们的 “Pop Up Series” ，不过它现在已经独立出来，最新设计也加入了美剧《毒枭》里的人物形象。

Yes, it is the piece that started our “Pop Up Series” which has now taken on an identity of its own and now includes shows like Narcos…

－ （从定价、设计或工艺上看）Pop Up Series 和 ih nom uh nit 的 collection 好像是两个不同的东西，是吗？

－ Looking through the pricing, design and craft, Pop Up Series and ih nom uh nit seem like two totally different works, could you explain them briefly? How similar or different are they?

准确地说，从开始做 “Pop Up Series“ 的时候就担心这个问题，我绝对不希望顾客会产生两个系列混淆的错觉。

尽管现在大多数人知道我们是因为《怪奇物语》的帽衫和 T-Shirt，但真正的粉丝也是知道我们的 collection 系列的。

Precisely, this has been my intention since creating the Pop Up Series. I never wanted to blend the two to confuse our audiences.

While we are now known to the masses as a ‘branded’ line with the sweatshirts and t shirts we are known by our true followers for our couture level work.

－ 我看现在的 ih nom uh nit  collection 好像没有季度之分了，这跟你以前的品牌 Au Courant 有关吗？

－ It seems like ih nom uh nit have no concept of fashion seasonal release, and is there anything related with your previous brand Au Courant?

Ha，又是一个有关季度的正确观点。其实我个人不会过多在意传统时装的季度之分，直到最近基于销售、产品展示等商业方面的考量，才开始变得比较在意这件事。

从这个层面上讲，我们需要去遵循大环境的规则。和 Au Courant 的唯一关系就是我都是品牌的创意总监。

Ha, also a correct assessment in regards to the seasons. I honestly do not care too much or pay attention to the traditional fashion seasons. Only recently I have been more so ‘contractually obligated’ to do so for sales and showroom purposes.

But hey, at this level we have to play the game.The only affiliation with Au Courant is simply me as the creative director.

－ ih nom uh nit collection 更注重在什么样的方面呢？ Luxury ？有没有一些具体的例子？

－ What does ih nom uh nit collection focus on? Luxury? Do you have some example to explain it?

对于 ih nom uh collection，我最根本的目标是做出一个纯粹的、奢华的、始终如一并拥有丰富类别的产品线。

Luxury 是品牌很重视的一点，虽然这个词现在有点被滥用，但幸运的是，这使得我们的顾客和粉丝能够明确知道什么场合、时间才最适合穿搭我们的产品，这一点对品牌的成功来说是很重要的。

不像大多数品牌，我们并不害怕去生产价值 40,000 欧的鳄鱼皮夹克，11,000 欧的狐狸皮背包以及 17,000 欧的羊羔皮机车夹克等昂贵单品。

My underlying focus and direction with this house is to produce a pure , luxurious and consistent products across multiple categories.

The term ‘luxury’ is one we take serious. Today this term is loosely used and fortunately this allows our clients and followers to distinguish when they experience our products. This I believe has played a critical part in our success as well.

Unlike most, we are not afraid to produce 40,000 euro crocodile jackets , 11,000 euro fox backpacks, 17,000 euro astrakhan moto jackets etc.

－ 除了成衣，你也同时在做家具、珠宝和鞋子的设计？

－ Besides ready to wear collection, are you also working on the furniture, jewelry and shoe design?

是的，但其他方面的设计不是很多，这也是我们自称以及被认为是 “时装屋”的原因。

Yes, not to give too much away but we call ourselves and are called a ‘house’ for a reason.

Stand by…

－ 我看到最近发布的 Collection Ten ，实在太棒了！个人感觉有点街头味道的同时，也很“巴黎”（Luxury 的感觉），这跟你要传达的感觉一致吗？

－ Personally, I am so obsessed with collection ten which is new released series recently. It has a little bit taste of streetwear, and mix with Parisian luxury feeling at the same time, is this what you want to convey based on this collection?

是的，那是 Collection Ten 背后的理念。我希望将自己 2013 年的穿搭理念带给大家，尤其是那些尚未完全踏足时尚领域，或者是像我一样很喜欢那个阶段的自己的年轻人。

那一年发生了很多事情：我刚搬到巴黎，爱上一个巴黎女人（之前从未想过），Kanye West 处于自己的巅峰阶段，流行文化发展势头迅猛…所有这些情绪和观感都是我想借由这个系列去传达的。

Yes, this was the concept behind collection ten. I wanted to bring my wardrobe in 2013 to our audience for those who were too young, not yet into fashion or those who really loved that period as much as I did.

During this period a lot was happening. I had just moved to Paris, I was in a serious relationship with a ‘Parisian Woman’ (never imagined that would happen) , Kanye was at his peak , pop culture was emerging strong. All of these emotions and feelings I wanted to convey.

 

「 我其实希望所有的产品都是通过我们倾注的设计、独特性、质量和奢侈感而吸引到顾客的 」

－ 我看 Instagram 上有很多明星、 Fashion Blogger 、 Buyer 都穿起了这个（怪奇物语）系列，不单在中国，在日本、韩国甚至其他地方都存在着“炒卖”的情况，这你知道吗？

－ I have seen many celebrities, fashion bloggers and buyers are wearing the collection of Stranger Things on instagram. It is just prevalent! Many people who are in China, Japan and South Korea, they are doing speculation business, they buy them and resell them with a higher price, how would you comment with this?

提到炒卖这件事，的确是个比较棘手的问题。我们在巴黎和米兰都有 Showroom ，并且负责管理分销渠道，但因为转卖和 B2B 市场的火爆，许多零售商都表示出了担忧。我们十分关注市场舆论和反馈意见，而且已经开始密切关注它从而尽可能更好地把控产品供应问题。

我们的定价已经足够高，因此将来可能不会再向上浮动。但是，经常鼓励客户购买他们看上的东西，如此以往我们可能会丢失自己产品的调性和风格，这在我看来是不合理的。

When it comes to the resell market its tough. We have showrooms in Paris and Milan that handle the distribution channels which we are now condensing (and a lot of retailers are not happy about this) due to the reselling and B2B. We do care about our market opinion and controlling our supply and are now starting to more closely monitor these occurrences where we can.

Our prices are high enough as is so it does not make sense to increase further. However, we do encourage clients to purchase items they like when they see because I am very irrational when it comes to pulling the plug on a style / piece.

－ 我不认为这是“坏事”，反是一种相对正常的市场规律。但是你有没有担心过， ih nom uh nit 背后的 Luxury 印象，会被这些现象所“混淆”呢？（或者说，有没担心过 ih nom uh nit 成为了人们眼里的 hypebeast item ）

－ I don’t think speculation business is bad for a brand image, somehow this is a market discipline. but , have you ever concern about one day people will be confuse about the brand values through out the speculation ? Or ih nom uh nit’s product will become a kind of hypebeast item?

就像上面提到的，我们已经开始采取一些控制产品供应和分销渠道的措施来避免这个问题。但另一方面，对分销和供应的限制自然会激发对热门商品更多的需求。

我其实希望所有的产品都是因为我们倾注的设计、独特性、质量和奢侈感而吸引到顾客。

As mentioned above, we have taken steps on our end to control the supply of our products and their distribution to avoid this problem. On the flip side of this by limiting the distribution and supply you naturally create a stronger demand for those products.

I want all of products to be coveted and appreciated for the work , uniqueness , quality and luxury appeal we put into them.

－ 所以对品牌的发展来讲，你认为社交网络是个“危险”的东西吗？

－ Do you think social media is a barrier or “dangerous” technology to the development of a brand?

我最近从一个朋友那里听到对这个问题的好见解，他说现在很多品牌都是所谓的 “instagram” 品牌，只需要有好看的产品图片以及社交网络就能火速传播，这在智能手机普及的今天十分容易实现，人人都是摄影师和模特。

这也是为什么我的个人 Instagram 账号只关注两个品牌（除了 ih nom uh nit）——Margirla 和 The Row。

当你有很好的产品并且能运用得当，社交媒体无疑是个强大的工具，它能帮你直接找到数以万计的潜在客户、出版物等。

不过千万要谨慎使用。

I recently heard the best comment that pertained to this question. One of my friends mentioned that brands today are ‘instagram’ brands or brands that only look great in images or on social media which today is extremely easy to achieve with a mediocre photographer and street casting.

This is why I personally follow 2 brands on my Instagram outside of ih nom uh nit , Margiela & The Row.

Social media is also a powerful tool when used strategically with a great product as it opens your reach and audience to millions of potential clients , publications etc.

Use with caution…

 

在社交网络的入侵下，拥有二级市场价值的品牌变得越来越多，从奢华的 Hermès 限量版 Birkin ，到之前街头上的各种元年稀有款 Air Jordan ，还有近些年侃爷掀起的 Yeezy 350、750 旋风以及街头品牌 Supreme 的排队大潮等等，炒卖图利已经变成一股不容小觑的市场反应。社交媒体引发的 “跟风” 现象，直接体现在价签数字、街头撞衫率、甚至是某宝复刻上，浮躁的社会风气逐渐消磨着个人审美的独特性。

因为社交媒体的不断介入，对一个品牌的创意总监来说，现在不单只是顾虑单纯的设计…也就是常常说产品好不好看的问题。如何控制爆款在市场上的过度反应、流通渠道，避免“功高盖主”的问题，可能才是更加棘手的难题吧。