“穷人版” NMD 的设计师，竟在 OFF-WHITE 设计球鞋？

每个 “蜈蚣精” 都觉得自己的球鞋不够多，今天 Nike 发售这双，明天 adidas 发售那双，不但不能错过新款，之前错过的如果看到也得拿下，这就是所有 Sneakerhead 的日常写照。但这是爱鞋的唯一表达方式么？显然不全面。

对球鞋痴迷到 “病入膏肓” 后，只想毕生奉献。有的人选择改造，于是有了像 The Shoe Surgeon 这样的客制单元；也有人选择踏实学习，把自己的创意真正做出来。今天的主人公就是后者的典型代表，明明能靠颜值，但偏偏爱上了脚下的球鞋。

如果你搜索过 adidas NMD 的图片，一定见过这双 “破产” 手工版，袜子鞋面、纸片模块，NMD 有的元素它都有，有趣的设计让人忍俊不禁。今天 NOWRE 就将对话这双 NMD 的缔造者——Mathieu Hagelaars。

 

Mathieu Hagelaars

 

「既然买不到，那就自己做一双好了」

－ 简单向大家介绍下你自己？

－ Could you please introduce yourself briefly to our audience?

我叫 Mathieu Hagelaars，是阿姆斯特丹球鞋设计工作室、咨询事务所 STUDIO HAGEL 的主理人。现在正与几个品牌合作，给他们设计球鞋。此外我还会将球鞋拆解重塑，用作我 “MAKERSMONDAY” 企划中，这些都能在我的 Instagram 上看到。

I’m Mathieu Hagelaars, founder of STUDIO HAGEL a footwear design and consultancy studio based in Amsterdam. I’m working with several brands where I design their footwear. Next to that I hack sneakers to create new designs, my “MAKERSMONDAY” projects. You can find these on my instagram.

－怎样想到用这种改造的方式出发设计的呢？

－How do you come up with this reconstructed idea to create a brand new model of sneaker?

一切都源自我对球鞋的渴望。我不是那种会为了买到限量版球鞋，彻夜排队守候的 Sneakerhead，但对于 adidas NMD 这双鞋是真的非常喜欢，真的很想要。那次为了买到 NMD City Sock，等待了很久准备在网上抢，很遗憾还是没买到。所以第二天我就想：“既然买不到，那我干脆自己做一双好了。” 这也是 MAKERSMONDAY 企划灵感最初的来源。尝试过几款后，逐渐开始了自己的创意设计，也就是现在大家在 Instagram 上看到的那些。

It all started with a sneaker that I really want to have. I’m not a sneaker head that camps out in front of a sneaker store or that collects all the special editions, but for this one I gave it a shot. So I stayed up, waiting for the Adidas NMD city sock to hit the online stores and I failed miserably. The next day I thought “why don’t I make it myself?”, and the first “MAKERSMONDAY” project was born. After replicating some sneakers, I wanted to make my own design. This evolved into a deconstructed style that you see now on my instagram page.

－看到你在 2014 年结束了专业的鞋类设计培训，系统设计课程带给你什么影响？

－You have taken the masterclass of Industrial Footwear Design, What impact does this kind of professional training bring to you?

培训课程是我进入球鞋设计这个行业的开始。之前有过销售员的工作经历，但慢慢发现设计才是我梦寐以求的职业。通过培训课程的系统学习让我意识到自己一定可以做到的，但最重要的是通过这个课程让我找到了自己在设计方面今后的发展方向。结束培训后大概过了一年半，才创立了 STUDIO HAGEL 工作室。

This masterclass was my first step getting into footwear design. I came from a sales background and always had the feeling and dream to get into design. By doing this masterclass I realised that I can do this, but most important I found out that this is the path that I need to follow. After that it took me a 1,5 year to start my studio.

 

「实穿性在球鞋设计中非常重要」

－你觉得自己设计的鞋子有实穿性吗？

－Do you focus on the actual wearabilities on your design?

设计是我最看重的。视觉上一定要吸引人。

The design, that’s my main focus. It needs to be visual appealing.

－觉得自己在做艺术品还是球鞋设计呢？

－Do you treat your work as an art or regular shoe design?

我觉得艺术品和设计之间有着相当大的区别。我不认为自己设计的是艺术品，我只把自己定义成球鞋设计师。你会看到我的设计都是能够真正穿着的，但艺术品则不属于这个范畴。所以实穿性在我的设计中是非常重要的元素。

There’s a huge segment between “art” and a “regular shoe design”. You can argue this for hours. I don’t see myself as an artist, I’m a footwear designer. All my designs need to look like you can actual wear them, a thing that’s not necessary when it’s an art piece. So you can say that wearability is an important element in my designs.

－你知道自己 Instagram po 出的 Yeezy Boost 350 V2 “袜子”、NMD 拖鞋等等被大家在网路疯狂转发么？

– The works you have done, like Yeezy Boost 350 V2 “socks”and NMD slippers go crazy on instagram, have you ever notice the phenomenon？

在我看来，大家看完我的创意感到开心和有趣是非常重要的，无论是之前做的 Yeezy Boost 350 V2 Sock 还是现在正在完成的设计，我能从这些设计中得到能量和动力。之前确实没有想到这些设计会在网路上引发关注，所以我猜这些作品成功是因为大家喜欢我从中表达的幽默感;)。

Humor and having fun in the things you do is important. Either if it is a big project I’m working on or a Yeezy Boost 350 V2 sock, I get energy from that. I’ve never thought that these designs would go viral, so I guess you can say that people like my humor 😉

 

「材料从来都不是创意灵感的约束」

－从你的作品中，看到最多的颠覆就是在 “材料” 方面，类似纸张、泡沫、棉袜等等，想要透过这些设计表达怎样的想法？

－You are good at utilize the different materials, like paper, plastic foam, and cotton socks on your design, what do you want or try to express through these material?

对我来说能够发现、挖掘每天都会接触的材质的另一面是非常有意思的事情。有时候换个角度就能把它们用到以前完全想象不到的地方。无论是材料、颜色还是形状，想象力会为你的设计带来很多惊喜。

For me it was a great way to see the beauty in materials you use in your everyday life. Try to look in a different way to the materials that surrounds you. Either if it’s just the texture, color or the shape. You can’t believe what you can make with it.

－不久前你也前往 Virgil Abloh 的巴黎工作室，也拿到了 OFF-WHITE x AJ I，怎么看待这双非常规的设计？对你有什么启发？

– You went to Virgil Abloh’s Paris studio a few days ago, and saw the OFF-WHITE x AJ I, how do you think about this pair of unconventional work?

简直太棒了！对于 OFF-WHITE x Air Jordan I 的解构，可以说已经达到了另一个很高的层面，Virgil 简直不可思议。整双鞋充满了你意想不到的丰富细节，Nike 将更高水准的设计运用在这双鞋中。Virgil 真的太棒了！

They’re great! The whole reconstructed direction they gave it, is next level. The amounts of detailing is huge. Nike has some high level techniques that they applied in the right way on this shoe. High five Virgil!

－看到你的 STUDIO HAGEL 工作室也有做球鞋方面的咨询，都和哪些品牌合作过？

－I have noticed that STUDIO HAGEL is also have consulting services, what brands have you ever collaborated with？

现在正在和 OFF-WHITE 合作设计球鞋。下一步将会和一些新晋球鞋品牌合作，带来一些新设计。我对和国际品牌的合作非常感兴趣，接下来大家就会看到啦，请拭目以待。

I work with Off White on their footwear collection. Next to that I’m doing the design for some new sneaker brands that will be released soon. I get more interest from international brands, that I’m talking too. So there are things coming up, stay tuned.

－你最喜欢的鞋是哪（几）双？

－ List several your favorite sneakers? And why do you obsessed with them?

我非常喜爱球鞋，但我不是 Sneakerhead。我并不会对某一款鞋痴迷。现在流行的 90 年代的复古风潮设计是我非常喜欢的调调；再比如刚买的 Air Max 97 Gold 也是最近比较喜欢的鞋款；看过更多 OFF-WHITE x Nike 后也觉得非常喜欢。现在好像 Balenciaga 很火吧！Triple-S 鞋型设计的很不错，相信不少人和我一样非常期待它的到来。当一些令我着迷的球鞋出现时，被吸引过后只想拥有。

I love sneakers, but I’m not a sneaker head. I don’t get “obsessed” by a certain sneaker. The whole 90’s vibe that going on right now is a thing that I really like. The Nike Air Max 97 GOLD is one of favourites that I own right now. I’ve seen the Nike X Off White models and I really like those. Also Balenciaga is on fire! That Triple-S runner is really well made. A piece that you want to have in front of you and just stare at it.

 

从起初的感兴趣到如今变成工作，他的热情已经得到回报；但 Hagelaars 仍旧没有放弃继续 “组装”，这才是一个挚爱 Sneaker 的设计师应该保留的初心。