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时尚
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Jun 23, 2023
by Miko
建立自己的反文化,Courrèges 2024 男装春季系列发布
André Courrèges 的作品有趣之处在于它的轻微反常,「人们渴望离开这座城市,追求享乐主义」是 di Felice 在此季追求的目标。他在创作时重看了米开朗基罗·安东尼尼 1970 年代的深度剪辑《Zabriskie Point》,捕捉到电影中美国的西部风景以及随心所欲的人物。受到人物正在为某种事业和权利而奋斗,然后在一个非常美丽且干燥的沙漠中流亡故事的启发,让 di Felice 想象并塑造了一个追求自我的无尽的夏天。
这一灵感与 di Felice 对档案风格的诠释完美融合,他从剪裁开始,设计出具有冲击力、锐利的单肩廓形和迷人的斜背背心连体衣。组合在一起的细条纹被扭曲和褶皱,一件原本遮盖的夹克被划破躯干,露出胸部部分。随之而来的是更多的「反常」的行为。带有大学标志的 T 恤上一侧带有黑色皮革袖饰,牛仔裤廓形则变得更宽,塑造为喇叭形。最具创意和影响力的是连衣裙和半身裙,它们由环绕身体的两个半圆形拼合,像是 Courrèges 标志,而最后出现的男士背心,也是其对背心的重新设计,采用完全透明的彩虹的印花,看起来好像黄金时段的彩虹闪耀在模特的躯干上。此外以本季的高跟凉鞋为例,这是对 di Felice 从档案中取出的鞋子的商业重新诠释,由单块金属片切割而成。
这些对于细节的把控,是 di Felice 的 Courrèges 在品牌复兴的海洋中脱颖而出。 他在这里通过倾向于无拘无束的乐趣和感性来建立自己的反文化。毕竟,在当今自我严肃的氛围中,如果不追求自己的快乐,那什么是反文化呢?
( ! ) Warning: include_once(/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/../vendor/autoload.php): Failed to open stream: No such file or directory in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 19 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356456 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 356816 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.0989 | 6762192 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1049 | 6757912 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1449 | 7007464 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1452 | 7007872 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1452 | 7008464 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1452 | 7008624 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1452 | 7008904 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1467 | 7084704 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |
( ! ) Warning: include_once(): Failed opening '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/../vendor/autoload.php' for inclusion (include_path='.:/usr/share/php') in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 19 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356456 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 356816 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.0989 | 6762192 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1049 | 6757912 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1449 | 7007464 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1452 | 7007872 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1452 | 7008464 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1452 | 7008624 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1452 | 7008904 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1467 | 7084704 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |
( ! ) Fatal error: Uncaught Error: Class "Endroid\QrCode\QrCode" not found in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 21 |
( ! ) Error: Class "Endroid\QrCode\QrCode" not found in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 21 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356456 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 356816 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.0989 | 6762192 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1049 | 6757912 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1449 | 7007464 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1452 | 7007872 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1452 | 7008464 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1452 | 7008624 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1452 | 7008904 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1467 | 7084704 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |