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时尚
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Feb 22, 2023
by MEL.
设计师品牌 PRONOUNCE 于伦敦时装周发布「一撇一捺」2023 秋冬系列
设计师品牌 PRONOUNCE 于伦敦时装周发布「一撇一捺」2023 秋冬系列,以打散的甲骨文部首图案和「结绳记事」的图形化作为想象力的指引,回顾人类原始的信息记录方式为出发点。在中国的远古时代,结绳记事在未有文字时便是人与人之间传递信息的纯粹工具,「结绳」是用绳子不同的打结办法帮助人们记忆,并处理日常生活中的一些事务。而发展出文字后的文明,部首作为汉字的第一笔划或形旁成为了书写的第一划,即独体字的起点。汉字的笔划部首则是这种体系中骨骼一般的存在。
此次新系列中出现的放大的绳结元素,与被拆散的甲⻣文部首,成就了系列的主视觉。系列中随处可⻅的撕裂纹理引述回甲⻣文被发现时候的裂纹与暗喻彰显残缺的独特美。开裂的纹理与用银色金属无序排列的铆钉点缀裂缝,似乎在向外界强调,即使外型上的不完整,也会因为存在的价值形成个体意义,存在即美。 而用生产过程中剩余的边角面料拼接而成展示出的甲骨文部首图形,游走在图像与文字之间,自然的形成隐喻,代表当下信息时代的不确定性。
秀场之上,蒙古族手工艺人针织帽和品牌为人熟知的毛衣开衫款式以巨大绳结的方式缠绕身体,模特如同行走的软雕塑。斜领的贯穿来自于中国传统长衫的不对称领口。颜色的运用上,灰度紫、亮蓝、蜡笔粉、黑白、香料红、锈色与贯穿的银色细节组成了系列的历史感色盘,大量的中性色基调与强烈对比颜色的图形结合,成就了系列的强烈视觉感受。而本次发布会全场的女性模特摒弃高跟鞋与裙子,两样被赋予固有女性形象的单品。进一步强调品牌的「性别共享」的着装理念。与 UNDETECTED 合作的手作工匠配饰,犹如书写落笔时笔划之间的错落关系般,灵动在身体与指尖。
( ! ) Warning: include_once(/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/../vendor/autoload.php): Failed to open stream: No such file or directory in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 19 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 362224 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 362584 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1013 | 6764928 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1074 | 6760648 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1479 | 7022816 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1482 | 7023224 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1482 | 7023816 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1483 | 7023976 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1483 | 7024256 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1498 | 7100056 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |
( ! ) Warning: include_once(): Failed opening '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/../vendor/autoload.php' for inclusion (include_path='.:/usr/share/php') in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 19 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 362224 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 362584 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1013 | 6764928 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1074 | 6760648 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1479 | 7022816 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1482 | 7023224 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1482 | 7023816 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1483 | 7023976 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1483 | 7024256 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1498 | 7100056 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |
( ! ) Fatal error: Uncaught Error: Class "Endroid\QrCode\QrCode" not found in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 21 |
( ! ) Error: Class "Endroid\QrCode\QrCode" not found in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 21 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 362224 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 362584 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1013 | 6764928 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1074 | 6760648 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1479 | 7022816 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1482 | 7023224 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1482 | 7023816 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1483 | 7023976 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1483 | 7024256 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1498 | 7100056 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |