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Acne Studios 在本季探索了「情感拼凑」的理念,暗示着修复是一种自我表达的方式。当其创始人兼创意总监 Jonny Johansson 十几岁时曾游说母亲给他买 Levi’s 501,结果遭到拒绝并得到两条瑞典品牌 H&M 的牛仔裤——价格实则一样。「她说这是最好的选择,」 Jonny Johansson 在这场秀的后台叹息到。但彼时的他就决定把所得服装改制成自己喜欢的样子,他将裤子和夹克大胆重组在一起,「我穿着它上学,不知道人们是否会注意到它」 Jonny Johansson表示,那时自制服装还并不酷,同学们甚至都没任何反应。
然而如今,带着这样的意识来到这场秋冬成衣系列,我们可以看到该季倾注了 Acne Studios 上述这般牛仔传统:升级改造的拼接牛仔纸袋裙、牛仔布裙,以及开场造型——一条改制的染色阔腿牛仔裙。所有这些都是对单一化的反抗。他还通过一系列双排扣风衣演绎了牛仔布的天然搭档——皮革,这些风衣被简化成开衩的无袖连衣裙,有的还采用过度染色设计。
其他值得注意的地方包括带有祖母花卉的簇绒衬里、或有绗缝的豪华毯子连衣裙、镶嵌有水晶的罗纹袜靴、破旧的褪色针织单品、分层流苏式连衣裙、以及反复回归的后 Talking Heads 时期方形西装外套。这些外套采用复染皮革制成,这也是 Acne Studios 的另一个早期标志。此外,本着循环再造的精神,此次秀场上座椅所用的人造毛皮将重新用于即将推出的服装系列,其余部分将捐给巴黎时装学校 Studio Berçot。
( ! ) Warning: include_once(/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/../vendor/autoload.php): Failed to open stream: No such file or directory in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 19 | ||||
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Call Stack | ||||
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0001 | 362512 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0001 | 362872 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1186 | 6779312 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1247 | 6774584 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1674 | 7026112 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1678 | 7034712 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1678 | 7035304 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1678 | 7035464 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1678 | 7035744 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1697 | 7111544 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |
( ! ) Warning: include_once(): Failed opening '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/../vendor/autoload.php' for inclusion (include_path='.:/usr/share/php') in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 19 | ||||
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Call Stack | ||||
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0001 | 362512 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0001 | 362872 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1186 | 6779312 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1247 | 6774584 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1674 | 7026112 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1678 | 7034712 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1678 | 7035304 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1678 | 7035464 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1678 | 7035744 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1697 | 7111544 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |
( ! ) Fatal error: Uncaught Error: Class "Endroid\QrCode\QrCode" not found in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 21 | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|
( ! ) Error: Class "Endroid\QrCode\QrCode" not found in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 21 | ||||
Call Stack | ||||
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0001 | 362512 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0001 | 362872 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1186 | 6779312 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1247 | 6774584 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1674 | 7026112 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1678 | 7034712 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1678 | 7035304 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1678 | 7035464 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1678 | 7035744 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1697 | 7111544 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |