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烟雾机将 Rick Owens 与 Aesop 新合作的香薰味注入东京宫的这场秀。场上模特们还携带着「thuribles」——现代机械化版的香炉(通常牧师用香炉在教堂里分配香火)。Rick Owens 是一名天主教徒,在展前采访中他谈到了自己的成长经历:整天在学校里思考和谈论道德,并在晚上学习 Cecil B. DeMille 1930 年代黑白色诠释圣经的装饰艺术。「这就是塑造了我的事物,」他称。
在一月份的男装秀之后,Rick Owens 追求了一些更庄重的东西。彼时那些看起来很有侵略性的灯头盔和直到发际线的拉链头罩不见了,如今这场秀他将无政府主义换成了挽歌——选择以 Gustav Mahler 的《第五交响曲》代替了迷幻 Bass,并配上了《威尼斯之死》的音轨。Rick Owens 是在离他意大利工厂不远的威尼斯度过的疫情,因此也可以揣测它们的内在联系。
拉回到主题,这是一个有着专属于 Rick Owens 之美的系列。从全套晚礼服开始,包括一些穿着「沙尘般亮片」的奥斯卡红毯竞选裙,令人回味的不对称设计从肩部垂下,直至背部或臀部四周留下堆褶。修身剪裁的夹克和慵懒的斜裁短裙也同样出现在了本周的 Saint Laurent 秀场上,在那展现了一些旧好莱坞式的魅力,但绝非此处有着 Cecil B. DeMille 黑白配色的风格。
另外,在一个外套存在感强劲的季节,很少有能与 Rick Owens 大胆作品相媲美的。袖子延伸到地上的羽绒夹克、像鹦鹉螺壳一样卷曲在身体周围的羽绒夹克、以及带有山羊皮饰边的「Theda Bara」派克大衣,看起来都像是在制作中的下一个热门商品。Rick Owens 表示「一直听到人们为现在这个时候展示时尚而道歉。」 毋需置疑的是,「我们(所处行业)能最好地表达美学所能为人们提供的。这具有巨大的社会和文化价值。」
( ! ) Warning: include_once(/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/../vendor/autoload.php): Failed to open stream: No such file or directory in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 19 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356392 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 356752 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1019 | 6767792 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1081 | 6763512 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1514 | 7014720 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1520 | 7023320 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1520 | 7023912 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1520 | 7024072 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1520 | 7024352 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1538 | 7100152 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |
( ! ) Warning: include_once(): Failed opening '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/../vendor/autoload.php' for inclusion (include_path='.:/usr/share/php') in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 19 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356392 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 356752 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1019 | 6767792 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1081 | 6763512 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1514 | 7014720 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1520 | 7023320 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1520 | 7023912 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1520 | 7024072 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1520 | 7024352 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1538 | 7100152 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |
( ! ) Fatal error: Uncaught Error: Class "Endroid\QrCode\QrCode" not found in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 21 |
( ! ) Error: Class "Endroid\QrCode\QrCode" not found in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 21 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356392 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 356752 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1019 | 6767792 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1081 | 6763512 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1514 | 7014720 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1520 | 7023320 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1520 | 7023912 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1520 | 7024072 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1520 | 7024352 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1538 | 7100152 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |