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时尚
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Jan 21, 2022
by Vera
Y/Project 秋季男装系列登场
以 Y/Project 的方式诠释 Jean Paul Gaultier 标志性印花。
该季有很多可解读之处。首先史诗般的场地为社交距离提供了足够空间,它的 T 台长至模特走完半轮需要整整近四分钟。巨大的空间内,无法确定近年引退后的设计顽童 Jean Paul Gaultier 是否也来了,但即使他本人不在现场,他也肯定创造性地「在场」。这是由于 Y/Project 的设计师 Glenn Martens 下周将担任 Jean Paul Gaultier 的单季创意总监,在那之前,Martens「采用 Jean Paul Gaultier 最具标志性的印花之一,并以 Y/Project 的方式对其进行了诠释。」「印花非常有层次——包括男款和女款,它们相互重叠。」
进一步细看,薄纱覆盖在了下装上,格纹衬衫、牛仔布和羊毛在身体前形成褶皱,就像美丽、丰满的扭曲化兰花。对于两性以及介于两者之间的定义,被设计师挑衅化得表达了出来——例如他提到的 Trompe l’oeil 身体印花,但又总以一种复杂的理性手法令观者迷惘。包括龙虾爪鞋在内的超现实主义配饰也几乎感受不到违和。热感应图形迷幻般的视觉效果下,随着电子乐逐渐融入 Die Zauberflöte 的《夜之女王》,Martens Glenn 仿佛吹奏着他的魔笛并上演其剪裁魔法。
( ! ) Warning: include_once(/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/../vendor/autoload.php): Failed to open stream: No such file or directory in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 19 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356392 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0001 | 356752 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1236 | 6764112 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1297 | 6759832 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1725 | 7011360 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1731 | 7019960 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1731 | 7020552 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1731 | 7020712 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1731 | 7020992 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1756 | 7096792 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |
( ! ) Warning: include_once(): Failed opening '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/../vendor/autoload.php' for inclusion (include_path='.:/usr/share/php') in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 19 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356392 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0001 | 356752 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1236 | 6764112 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1297 | 6759832 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1725 | 7011360 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1731 | 7019960 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1731 | 7020552 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1731 | 7020712 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1731 | 7020992 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1756 | 7096792 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |
( ! ) Fatal error: Uncaught Error: Class "Endroid\QrCode\QrCode" not found in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 21 |
( ! ) Error: Class "Endroid\QrCode\QrCode" not found in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 21 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356392 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0001 | 356752 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1236 | 6764112 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1297 | 6759832 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1725 | 7011360 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1731 | 7019960 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1731 | 7020552 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1731 | 7020712 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1731 | 7020992 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1756 | 7096792 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |