



















































































在离开两年后,Matthew M. Williams 重新回归 1017 ALYX 9SM,并正式发布了 2022 秋冬系列「Fade」虚假。继之前 Williams 在巴黎展示的几季系列后,其便将工作室搬至米兰,此次秀场选择了具有 100 年历史的意大利的 Saint Victor and the Forty Martyrs 教堂举行,也是其在意大利推出的第一个系列。
对于本次 2022 年秋冬男女混合系列,Williams 延续品牌自创立起游走于街头服饰和奢华服饰之间的风格,但同时重新审视品牌基因,将「对比」「大廓形」作为关键词。在系列中可见色彩对比度的鲜明对比、不同材质叠穿在一起是的对比,以及硬朗质感和飘逸材质的对比。也可以看到贯穿整个系列的宽松廓形剪裁,比如紧身胸衣式上衣不会收紧身体,而是随意挂在模特优雅的身材上,但同时,考虑到系列的可穿戴性,设计不会感觉不合身,呼应 Williams 形容的「natural tech」。
而除了对于剪裁上的关注,2022 秋冬系列还十分注重面料的质感和技术。有光泽的 PVC 皮革、舒适别致的双面羊毛皮和纹理针织,Williams 还在整个系列中采用一些天然和技术材料。通过对硬件和材料的深入研究,1017 ALYX 9SM 还打造了一系列战术/工装裤款式,并配有外部 3D 切片口袋,采用全新的宽腿廓形、对比鲜明的修身松紧款式和一体式弹力紧身裤。除此之外其还用 PVC 被用于制作夹克、大衣和无袖背心,以提供结构化的 3D 形式。另一方面,色彩作为设计中的重要部分,Williams 还是将黑色作为最主要的颜色,其次是柔和的绿色。大胆的红色和暖粉色刺穿了柔和的色彩,让观众保持警觉。
就整体秀场从其中的男装来看,鲜艳亮丽的色彩,材质如羊毛、珍珠色缎和奶油色皮革搭配标志金属配件,在材质模糊男性刚强的线条同时,金属配饰也削弱了材质带来的华丽感,同样也应对了「对比」的关键词,在阳刚和阴柔之间形成鲜明对比。至于女装对比男装的层次感和厚重效果,女装更加简约,同样带有「对比」,全长飘逸的连衣裙采用硬朗的水晶网布镶边,而合身的紫红色和红色单色裤子和打底衣组合则装饰有方形金属硬件。
这个系列巧妙地建立在 William 之前的系列之上,但扩展了已有的想法并种植了新的想法。服装具有高级感和创新性,同时保持设计和可穿戴性。
( ! ) Warning: include_once(/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/../vendor/autoload.php): Failed to open stream: No such file or directory in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 19 | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|
Call Stack | ||||
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 362624 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 362984 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.0967 | 6775456 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1019 | 6771176 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1350 | 7027120 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1354 | 7027528 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1354 | 7028120 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1354 | 7028280 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1354 | 7028560 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1373 | 7104360 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |
( ! ) Warning: include_once(): Failed opening '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/../vendor/autoload.php' for inclusion (include_path='.:/usr/share/php') in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 19 | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|
Call Stack | ||||
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 362624 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 362984 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.0967 | 6775456 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1019 | 6771176 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1350 | 7027120 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1354 | 7027528 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1354 | 7028120 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1354 | 7028280 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1354 | 7028560 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1373 | 7104360 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |
( ! ) Fatal error: Uncaught Error: Class "Endroid\QrCode\QrCode" not found in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 21 | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|
( ! ) Error: Class "Endroid\QrCode\QrCode" not found in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 21 | ||||
Call Stack | ||||
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 362624 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 362984 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.0967 | 6775456 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1019 | 6771176 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1350 | 7027120 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1354 | 7027528 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1354 | 7028120 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1354 | 7028280 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1354 | 7028560 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1373 | 7104360 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |