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时尚
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Nov 10, 2021
by West.Wen
伦敦设计师品牌 OFF COURSE 发布新季系列 Lookbook
幽默与讽刺,玩乐与洒脱,由设计二人组 Jia 和 Yiming 创立于 2020 年的伦敦设计师品牌 OFF COURSE,根植于这样的态度而诞生。品牌名称的由来源于一场酒过三巡后的讨论,在确定了以词组为方向后,回应的 OF COURSE 也顺势变为了 OFF COURSE,这与 Jia 和 Yiming 的设计脉络和她们希望赋予品牌的「不严肃」形象分外契合,在偏离常规的玩世不恭下,却又处处透露着细节。
OFF COURSE 塑造的风格画像取自伦敦东区的艺术院校学生,她/他们顶着半永久的黑眼圈,身穿二手市场淘来的飞行员夹克、沾有颜料和咖啡渍的运动裤,或是祖母手织的套头衫,以及祖父衣橱传承而来的格纹羊毛西装。真实、随性而舒适,继而也表明了品牌对于复古文化的追逐和热爱。
日前,OFF COURSE 以 2021 秋冬和 2022 春夏双季叙事的形式呈现新作,其中秋冬系列的索引以打火机为线索,源于设计师试图了解世界上所有东西燃点的「爱好」,以打火机为图形基础,并加入品牌热衷的复古元素。如不对称口袋设计、衣身右侧点缀有白色明线的羊毛千鸟格西装,1980s 观感的毛领 Bomber Jacket,配以 LOGO 拉链和品牌的流星刺绣。而一系列藏于衣领主标、衬衫口袋与背面的彩蛋细节,是 OFF COURSE 玩世不恭的本性使然,也是购物这一行为之外的支线任务,等待着人们自行开启。
2022 春夏系列,德国摄影师 Michael Wolf 的一组以谷歌街景为参照的无意识抓拍,闯入到 OFF COURSE 的灵感世界,源于日常生活的戏剧性,在 Jia 和 Yiming 的提取下更显戏谑与幽默。传统意义上的「Old Money」身份介入到 2022 春夏系列,只不过是以 OFF COURSE 的形式出现—经品牌单方面签订生效的「LOGO变更计划」,与 Mercedes-Benz「联名」的 OFF COURSE Mercedes,分离的 ROLEX 皇冠标志以及更改的 OFFC 名称缩写,希尔顿酒店的 Hilton Hotels & Resorts 化身 Filton Hotties&Riches(费尔顿,热辣且富裕)……而在大牌的「跨界联动」之外,2022 春夏的视觉戏谑还包括了左手鸡腿、右手美金的 OFKFCOURSE 自由上校、四根别针围绕的「法吉拉」等暗藏的细节。色系上,2022 春夏采用了老式胶片过渡曝光产生的薄荷绿、泡泡糖粉、花灰以及婴儿蓝等色调,而不同肌理的面料也营造出夏日时节露天影院的氛围感,
以戏谑幽默为内核,工艺质感为基础,OFF COURSE 希冀于塑造的是「goto」的衣着状态—本能的选择,面对塞满衣橱的各类单品,本能选择的服饰。
( ! ) Warning: include_once(/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/../vendor/autoload.php): Failed to open stream: No such file or directory in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 19 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356456 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 356816 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1178 | 6763872 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1265 | 6759144 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1828 | 7011888 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1834 | 7012296 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1834 | 7012888 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1835 | 7013048 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1835 | 7013328 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1853 | 7089128 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |
( ! ) Warning: include_once(): Failed opening '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/../vendor/autoload.php' for inclusion (include_path='.:/usr/share/php') in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 19 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356456 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 356816 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1178 | 6763872 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1265 | 6759144 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1828 | 7011888 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1834 | 7012296 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1834 | 7012888 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1835 | 7013048 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1835 | 7013328 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1853 | 7089128 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |
( ! ) Fatal error: Uncaught Error: Class "Endroid\QrCode\QrCode" not found in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 21 |
( ! ) Error: Class "Endroid\QrCode\QrCode" not found in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 21 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356456 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 356816 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1178 | 6763872 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1265 | 6759144 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1828 | 7011888 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1834 | 7012296 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1834 | 7012888 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1835 | 7013048 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1835 | 7013328 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1853 | 7089128 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |