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时尚
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Apr 14, 2021
by Liz Gioro
东西方文化交汇,YUEQI QI 2021 秋冬秀场回顾
仙童号——这个充满了童趣而又稍带着神秘感的名字来源于设计师戚玥琪的丈夫家族中曾经拥有的一架飞机。在 YUEQI QI AW21 时装秀开场前的短短 20 秒钟时间里,一支充满年代感的航空影片将大家带入故事的情境中。传承与使命感这两个词汇也便以一种戏剧的方式逐渐呈现。
在 YUEQI QI 的 2021 秋冬系列中,设计师戚玥琪希望通过她和丈夫托马斯一同回到位于加拿大的家人身边的故事,来解释这两个原本依附于个人乡土情结的词汇。在同样作为「外来者」的文化视角下,在春夏系列里传达的混乱、飘忽的异乡孤独被家庭团聚的温馨与惬意所取代;亲缘关系下产生的共鸣消解着不同文化碰撞所可能带来的不适,迥异的生活习惯和精神内核也成为了琐碎生活中的有趣点滴。对于设计师来说,当异域成为情感归属的一部分时,原本独属于故土的文化使命变得丰富而复杂,从而萌生出不同于以往的传承意识,以及一种更加灵活、 富有流动性,超越故土本色限制的思维模式。
设计师在新系列里一如既往以个人故事赋予了单品具有层次的表达。黑金相间的珠串编织花朵依附着如甲胄般的编织外套向上延伸;勋章状的珠串点缀于柔软舒适的面料之上,如同家族传奇故事与家中安适生活的并线叙事,既是庄严致敬也是寄情感慨。采用标志性玻璃珠编织、色彩鲜明的爱心面料间缀饰的流苏随着身体运动而轻盈跳跃;灵感来源于童年旧照片的串珠小熊玩偶被置于臂膀之间以模拟游戏时光——脱离了文化陌生感带来的不安思绪,色彩及造型得以恣意延展,展露童稚与纯真。再创作的玉石格纹印花中点缀的花影则象征着本源文化的回归与更新,在不同的空间与时间之下,设计师对于故乡与血脉的感知也发生着变化。
从对家族传奇故事的致敬到对平淡生活的记录,在设计师对「外来媳妇」与「家人」角色认同的转换之间,关于东西方文化交汇的命题在 YUEQI QI AW21 系列中以更加亲密的方式被解读,呈现崭新面貌。
( ! ) Warning: include_once(/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/../vendor/autoload.php): Failed to open stream: No such file or directory in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 19 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356456 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 356816 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1018 | 6756912 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1079 | 6752632 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1477 | 7006544 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1480 | 7006952 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1480 | 7007544 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1480 | 7007704 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1480 | 7007984 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1497 | 7083784 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |
( ! ) Warning: include_once(): Failed opening '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/../vendor/autoload.php' for inclusion (include_path='.:/usr/share/php') in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 19 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356456 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 356816 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1018 | 6756912 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1079 | 6752632 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1477 | 7006544 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1480 | 7006952 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1480 | 7007544 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1480 | 7007704 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1480 | 7007984 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1497 | 7083784 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |
( ! ) Fatal error: Uncaught Error: Class "Endroid\QrCode\QrCode" not found in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 21 |
( ! ) Error: Class "Endroid\QrCode\QrCode" not found in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 21 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356456 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 356816 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1018 | 6756912 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1079 | 6752632 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1477 | 7006544 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1480 | 7006952 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1480 | 7007544 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1480 | 7007704 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1480 | 7007984 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1497 | 7083784 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |