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时尚
-
Dec 4, 2020
by Claire.Xu
CHANEL 2021 Métiers d’art 工坊系列秀场发布
在法国罗亚尔河谷上的舍农索城堡上演中古世纪古典大秀。
转眼间,又来到了 CHANEL 2020/21 Métiers d’art 工坊系列,每一季的 CHANEL 大秀总是令时尚界屏息以待,好奇在创意总监 Virginie Viard 笔下又将为品牌带来什么全新的设计与美学轮廓,尤其工坊系列更是能将 CHANEL 经典精神展露无遗。Métiers d’Art 法文中为工艺的意思,顾名思义就是将法式传统工艺美学传承与延续,带出一件件优雅奢华的作品,而本季创意总监 Virginie Viard 将工坊大秀带来坐落于法国罗亚尔河谷上的舍农索城堡 Chateau de Chenonceau,那唯美古典之地。
本季 CHANEL 2020/21 Métiers d’art 工坊系列已经悄悄登场,在正式发布前从释出的前导影片与形象照中,便可以见到本次举办于舍农索城堡 Chateau deChenonceau,此建筑为文艺复兴时期的建筑代表作,因此座城堡先后不同时期住着几位传奇的女性,如 Catherine de’ Medici、Louise de Lorraine 等,因此也被称为《女士城堡(Chateau des Dames)》,成为 CHANEL 2020/21 Metiers d’art 工坊系列的创作灵感来源,其中城堡内的装饰随处可见 16 世纪意大利裔的法国王后 Catherine de’ Medici 的双 C 姓名缩写,与 Gabrielle Chanel 女士创造的「双C」 标志极为相似,另外皇家画廊砖瓦的黑白色调也与 CHANEL 设计基因不谋而和,Virginie Viard 将这些元素带到服装设计上,以花朵和花坛设计作为系列的刺绣图案。
每一季的这个专门为 CHANEL 设计的时装系列,旨在赞扬工匠的技能:来自 Lesage 的刺绣师,来自 Lemarié 的羽毛制作者,来自 Desrues 的雕塑家,来自 Lognon 的褶皱匠,来自 Massaro 的制鞋匠,来自 Maison Michel 的女帽匠以及来自法国的 Causse Gantier 的手套制造商,本季 Virginie Viard 带出一款款黑白棋盘格纹设计的亮片迷你短裙,搭配内里莱卡与天鹅绒面料的 Legging,以及编织花呢长裙搭配黑色毛衣,澎袖与编织设计将文艺复时期的典雅美学完美呈现,而 16 世纪更启发了斗篷配上衬衫、手套和长靴的造型,更受到城堡的挂毯启发,将刺绣晚装系列带出半透明欧根纱上铺满黑丝格纹设计,将 16 世纪华丽的宫廷服装变为更为轻巧简约的现代服装,最后 Virginie Viard 更以 1983 年 Karl Lagerfeld 所设计的 Chloé trompe l’oeil “shower” 作为灵感,将景色石砌与水波转化到服装设计上,唯美复古的将中古世纪女性样貌带回现代。
( ! ) Warning: include_once(/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/../vendor/autoload.php): Failed to open stream: No such file or directory in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 19 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356456 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 356816 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1045 | 6767200 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1110 | 6762920 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1553 | 7016480 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1557 | 7025080 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1557 | 7025672 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1557 | 7025832 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1557 | 7026112 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1579 | 7101912 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |
( ! ) Warning: include_once(): Failed opening '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/../vendor/autoload.php' for inclusion (include_path='.:/usr/share/php') in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 19 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356456 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 356816 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1045 | 6767200 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1110 | 6762920 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1553 | 7016480 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1557 | 7025080 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1557 | 7025672 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1557 | 7025832 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1557 | 7026112 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1579 | 7101912 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |
( ! ) Fatal error: Uncaught Error: Class "Endroid\QrCode\QrCode" not found in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 21 |
( ! ) Error: Class "Endroid\QrCode\QrCode" not found in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 21 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356456 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 356816 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.1045 | 6767200 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1110 | 6762920 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1553 | 7016480 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1557 | 7025080 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1557 | 7025672 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1557 | 7025832 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1557 | 7026112 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1579 | 7101912 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |