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时尚
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Jun 24, 2022
by Vera
Yohji Yamamoto 2023 年春季男装系列发布
1958 那年山本耀司 15 岁,彼时风靡一时的猫王 Elvis Presley 发行了热门歌曲《麻烦》,其中的歌词「因为我是邪恶的,我的中间名是痛苦/好吧,我是邪恶的,所以不要惹我」如今出现在了山本耀司 2023 年春季男装秀上配乐中。
无论秀场配乐是否是条引子,几乎没有其他线索可以来探索该系列的含义。或许服装只是服装。这几季以来,山本耀司一直把他的男装造型当作黑板或空墙,在上面填满只言片语。「你是由什么做成的」、「糟糕的生活」和「我对规则感到厌倦」是这次出现的一些文字片段。
本季也关乎面料和结构的有形化。设计师对于颜色的运用异常生动,近乎迷幻的贴布与印花混合在一起,产生万花筒般的效果。此外,叠穿是这些造型的关键,例如用百褶半裙和围裙来搭配宽松长裤或外衣。
和上季一样,模特们的头上都依旧穿插着灰白发色,这是否是山本耀司依然在讨论时尚界长期存在的年龄禁忌?又或者因为时间是他作品中的一个重要主题,他正在与过去进行对话(参见上一季的狄更斯主题)——以一种推进传统前行的方式。
( ! ) Warning: include_once(/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/../vendor/autoload.php): Failed to open stream: No such file or directory in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 19 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356280 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 356640 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.0999 | 6761320 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1059 | 6757040 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1543 | 7008248 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1547 | 7016848 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1547 | 7017440 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1547 | 7017600 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1547 | 7017880 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1563 | 7093680 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |
( ! ) Warning: include_once(): Failed opening '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/../vendor/autoload.php' for inclusion (include_path='.:/usr/share/php') in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 19 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356280 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 356640 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.0999 | 6761320 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1059 | 6757040 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1543 | 7008248 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1547 | 7016848 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1547 | 7017440 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1547 | 7017600 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1547 | 7017880 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1563 | 7093680 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |
( ! ) Fatal error: Uncaught Error: Class "Endroid\QrCode\QrCode" not found in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 21 |
( ! ) Error: Class "Endroid\QrCode\QrCode" not found in /mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php on line 21 |
Call Stack |
# | Time | Memory | Function | Location |
1 | 0.0000 | 356280 | {main}( ) | .../index.php:0 |
2 | 0.0000 | 356640 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-blog-header.php ) | .../index.php:17 |
3 | 0.0999 | 6761320 | require_once( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-includes/template-loader.php ) | .../wp-blog-header.php:19 |
4 | 0.1059 | 6757040 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/single.php ) | .../template-loader.php:106 |
5 | 0.1543 | 7008248 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-singles/gallery.php ) | .../single.php:44 |
6 | 0.1547 | 7016848 | get_template_part( $slug = 'template-parts/content', $name = 'title-content-share', $args = ??? ) | .../gallery.php:17 |
7 | 0.1547 | 7017440 | locate_template( $template_names = [0 => 'template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', 1 => 'template-parts/content.php'], $load = TRUE, $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../general-template.php:204 |
8 | 0.1547 | 7017600 | load_template( $_template_file = '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php', $load_once = FALSE, $args = [] ) | .../template.php:718 |
9 | 0.1547 | 7017880 | require( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-title-content-share.php ) | .../template.php:785 |
10 | 0.1563 | 7093680 | include( '/mnt/deploy.bak/test.nowre.com/web/wp-content/themes/nowre_2023/template-parts/content-share.php ) | .../content-title-content-share.php:4 |